Monday, September 22, 2008

World Day of Bread

3rd World Bread Day hosted by 1x umruehren bitte aka kochtopfJoin me in trying your hand at bread baking, any loaf will do. Can't you just smell that wonderful aroma? I can hear the crackling of the loaf as its crust sets as I pull it out of the oven.

Once when a maintenance worker was working outside my apartment window, I received a knock on the door. When I opened the door, the man was standing there, hat in hand, and he asked me what I was doing--he hadn't smelled anything like what was coming from my window since he was a child. Somewhat incredulously I said I was just making whole wheat bread. He looked so forlorn that I sent him home with a loaf. I guess it's true that the way to a man's heart is through his stomach!

Of the Pastes of Fruits

See Quince Paste

It is only requisite to have recourse to the particular Marmelades, of every sort of Fruit, to know how to make as many Pastes; in regard that it is almost the same thing, and the whole Work is brought to Perfection by drying those Marmelades. To that purpose, when the Business requires dispatch, the Sugar must boil, till it be crack'd, or at least, greatly Feathered; to be incorporated with the dried Fruit. Afterwards, the Marmelade being made according to Art; may be taken up with a Spoon, and dress'd upon Slates, or in Moulds, in order to be dried in the Stove, with a good Fire. In the Evening, or the next Day, they must be turn'd on the other side, and laid again upon the same Slates, or upon Sieves: As soon as these Pastes are become very firm and compact, they are to be lock'd up in Boxes, and may be us'd, as Occasion requires.

At other times, when you would have any Paste-dryed, let as much Marmelade, as you shall think fit, be put into a Copper-pan, and having caus'd some Sugar to be brought to its Feathered Quality, pour it in; tempering it well till it slips off from the bottom of the Pan; after the same manner, as in the making of Marmelade. Then let all simper together, for a while, and let the Paste be immmediately dress'd upon Slates, or in Tin-moulds, made in form of a Heart, Square, Flower-de-luce, etc., which are usually set into the Stove, to be dried as before. These are the general Directions that may be given, for the ordering of such Fruit-pastes as are made of Marmelades; allowing two Pounds of Sugar, for every Pound of Fruit. But for other Pastes, that are made on purpose, an equal quantity of each will be sufficient, and the Sugar must be boil'd till it has attain'd to its Crack'd Quality.
* * * * *

The court & country cook, faithfully translated out of French into English by J. K. A. J. Churchill, London, 1702, p. 81-82 New Instructions for Confectioners.

Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Cooking with Les Dames d'Escoffier

Cooking With Les Dames d'EscoffierA dinner party arranged in response to an all-male organization of eminent chefs led to the first-ever all-women’s food society, Les Dames d' Escoffier International (LDEI). To date, LDEI and its chapters have raised nearly $4 million for scholarships and grants for mentoring women in the food and beverage industries and portions of the proceeds from this book will help finance such efforts. Their Green Tables initiative teaches the benefits of eating seasonal, local and sustainable food.

«COOKING WITH LES DAMES D'ESCOFFIER celebrates the collective wisdom of this impressive group of food professionals. A definitive resource, the cookbook is filled with insights and tips for the home cook, together with 125 of the Dames’ most essential recipes. Here are such delights as Lidia Bastianich’s hearth-warming Pork Rib Guazzetto; Susan Feniger’s Roasted Black Cod with Horseradish Coulis and Farmers’ Carrots; Anne Willan’s elegant Twice-Baked Spinach Soufflés; and Alice Medrich’s Bittersweet Soufflés with Nibby Cream. More than 120 recipes include appetizers, first courses, soups, main courses (including vegetarian options), sides, baking, and desserts.»

COOKING WITH LES DAMES D'ESCOFFIER is like sitting down with a renowned chef and teacher across the counter, guiding you along the way in culinary adventures. The recipes are highlighted with tips to insure success, both in preparation and saving time. Once the food is prepared and the aromas are wafting through the room, you'll feel like you're curled up in the inglenook with a hearty bowl of delight.

COOKING WITH LES DAMES D'ESCOFFIER Cookbook tour begins in major US cities in October.

• Hardcover: 368 pages
• Publisher: Sasquatch Books (October 1, 2008)
• Language: English
• ISBN-10: 1570615306
• ISBN-13: 978-1570615306

Thursday, September 11, 2008

Crackling Crust

Paste for Crackling-crust.
Having provided about two Handfuls of Almonds, which are sufficient for one Pan-pye, let them be scalded, blanch'd, and thrown into fresh Water: Then they are to be wip'd, and pounded in a Mortar, moistening them from time to time, with a little White of an Egg and Orange-flower Water, beaten together, to prevent them from turning to Oil. 'Tis very material, that they be well pounded, and they may also be squeez'd through a Sieve, to take away all the Clods, or Lumps, The Almond-paste being thus prepar'd, must be spread on a Bason or Dish, and dried with Powder-sugar, as an ordinary sort of Paste, till it become very pliable. Afterwards, having set it by for some time, you are to roll out a Piece for the under-crust, to be dried in the Oven upon the Pie-pan; whilst other small Pastry-works are making, with what was par'd off, such as Petits Choux, Ciphers, Knots and other Devices, that may serve for the Garnishing of your Pie.

Crackling-crust made after another manner.
After the Almonds have been thoroughly pounded and moisten'd, as before, let as much Sugar as Paste, at least, be put into a Copper-pan, and boil'd till it become Feathered: Then throwing in your Almonds, let all be well temper'd and mingled together with the Spatula, and having set them over the Fire again, keep continually stirring the whole Mass, till your Paste slips of[f] from the bottom and sides of the Pan. Afterwards, it must be laid in a Dish, strew'd with Powder-sugar on the top, and set by, for a while, as the former, in order to make a Pye of it, after the same manner.

In preparing the Paste conformable to either of these Methods, the Pie will certainly become crackling and delicious to the highest Degree: But if you are minded to avoid the trouble, and perhaps the charge of Almonds, very good Pies may also be made according to the following Instructions.

Another Way.
Take one, or two Whites of Eggs, with three or four Spoonfuls of fine Sugar, and as much Flower, if you would only make one Pan-pye: The Sugar being first temper'd with the Whites of the Eggs, and then the Flower, knead all together, till your Paste become pliable, and roll out a very thin Piece; strewing it with fine Sugar: Afterwards, having put it into te Pie-pan, let the Sides be neatly pinch'd, at certain Intervals, and prickt with the point of a Knife, to hinder them from puffing: In the mean while, the remaining part of the Paste is to be roll'd out into Slips of the thickness of a Lace, to compleat the inside of the Pie; which may be made in the form of a Sun, Star, Malta-cross, Flower-de-luce, Coat of Arms, or the like. At last, it must be gently bak'd in the Oven, and when ready to be brought to Table, the void Spaces are to be fill'd up, with several sorts of Marmelades, or Jellies, according to the Colours, that shall be judg'd most expedient: The same thing ough also to be observ'd, with respect to Pies made of the preceding Pastes. To the latter, may be added a little Orange-flower Water, or some other sweet Water, and if it be requisite to prepare a greater quantity of either sort of Paste, another Piece, of an equal thinness, may be roll'd out for the Lid; which must be cut round, and dried in the Oven, upon a Pie-pan, or Plate, in order to cover the Pie, after it has been ic'd over, if you have no mind to leave it in its natural Colour.
* * * * *

The court & country cook, faithfully translated out of French into English by J. K. A. J. Churchill, London, 1702, p. 114-116.New Instructions for Confectioners

Tuesday, September 09, 2008

Compotes of Peaches

When the Peaches are full ripe, they can only be roasted; because this sort of Fruit is too soft. Therefore they must be neatly par'd and laid in Quarters, upon a Silver-dish, or Plate, with Sugar, and, if you think fit, with candy'd Lemmon-peel chopt small: Then, being bak'd in an Oven, let them be dress'd, if they are to be serv'd p with any Thing else, and let the red-hot Fire-shovel be pass'd over them, to give them a fine Colour, after they have been strew'd with Sugar.

This Compote, and others of the like nature, may be put into a Tourte, or Pan-pie, and to that end, a Border of Paste, and even the whole Furniture that is usually provided for other Pan-pies, must be laid in the Dish, in which the Peaches are to be roasted, and the Fruit must be set in order therein. In the mean while, another Piece of Paste for Crackling Crust, being roll'd out, may be cut into slips, and separately bak'd in an Oven; in order to be ic'd over with the White of an Egg, and Powder-sugar, well temper'd together. This ic'd Crust must aso be dried in the Oven, till it become very white, and laid upon the Pie, a little before it is serv'd up to Table.
* * * * *

The court & country cook, faithfully translated out of French into English by J. K. A. J. Churchill, London, 1702, p. 71 New Instructions for Confectioners.

Friday, September 05, 2008

September for the Confectioner

Plums continue still, for a considerable time, and Apples and Pears much longer: So that new Compotes, Pastes and Marmelades may be made of them, and the best ought to be chosen for that purpose; such a the Bon-chretien [Bartlett], the Bergamot, and the Summer-Certoe [Certeau d'Été, whose flesh turns pink upon cooking], among Pears: This last is also preserv'd dry.

Peaches, which continue for a long while, likewise furnish Matter for Pastes, Compotes and Marmelade, and they may be order'd so as to make dry Sweet-meats.

Moreover, Bell-grapes are then preserv'd liquid, and Pastes, Jellies and Compotes are made of them. Muscadine-grapes are order'd in the same manner, and serve to make a very delicious sort of Ratafiaz.

Barberries, which are generally ripe at the same time, are proper for Conserves.


The court & country cook
, faithfully translated out of French into English by J. K. A. J. Churchill, London, 1702, p. 13.
Related Posts Plugin for WordPress, Blogger...