Showing posts with label Celebrations. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Celebrations. Show all posts

Saturday, March 31, 2007

Biscotins - Passover Desserts

Desserts for Passover often present a problem—how to cook something new and delicious without the addition of leavening, which is proscribed during the Days of Unleavened Bread. Following is a delightful French biscotin or dry cookie still made in artisanal bakeries in France, especially Provence.

Biscotins
Take 3 egg whites, four spoonfuls of caster sugar, & a spoonful of marmalade of anything you wish, oranges, lemons, apricots, etc; the remainder will be of flour that you will knead in until your paste is quite handy; form your biscotins of various figures, the one round, the other long, in “noose of love” better known as true lovers knot or figure-eights, & any other figure [you like]. You will bake them with small fire [slow oven]; & when you see that they are of lightly russet-red colored, withdraw them. To detach them, you moisten the paper sheet behind with water, & it should come off easily; but it should be done at once. [This implies that the biscotins have been placed on a sheet of paper and then onto the oven sole or bottom of the bake oven, instead of being placed on a baking sheet as in the following recipe. This is a common baking method.]

Another manner of Biscotins
Take a half-pound of sugar; cook it to the feather stage (Hess* identifies the temperature as 232ºF, Recipe S6, "grand soufflé or feather."). Once cooked, remove it from the fire, & weigh three-quarters [pound] of flour which you will put inside your sugar syrup, reserve some flour that you will keep to handle it on the table. Having put your flour in your syrup, you will stir it well with a spoon: when your paste is well done [all your syrup has been absorbed into the flour], take it from the stove, & put it onto a clean table [marble pastry board], where you will have strewn a little flour before; it is necessary to stir it up; at the same time you will pour out your paste, & make small balls about one inch: you must work quickly; because when the paste is cold, one cannot work with it anymore: when the balls are formed, cook in the oven without paper; on copper sheets. When they are cooked, take out of the oven, & put them in a paper cone at the drying oven.

Another manner.
You will take a pound & half wholewheat flour: cook twenty ounces of sugar to the small feather; you will pour it in a mortar; let it cool & afterwards put in the flour, six fresh eggs & a spoonful of orange flower water; pound the whole together one quarter-of-an-hour, & pour out of the mortar onto a clean table, & roll the aforementioned paste in rolls, as large as a hazel nut, & cook in an oven until hot [cooked through or set] and sweet-smelling.

Nouvelle Instruction pour les Confitures, les Liqueurs, et les Fruits, François Massialot. Chez Claude Prudhomme, Paris, 1716, pp. 194-196.

*Karen Hess Martha Washington's Booke of Cookery

* * * * *

Prenez trios blancs d’œufs, quatre cuillerées à bouche de sucre en poudre, & une cuillerée de marmalade de quoy que ce soit, oranges, citrons, abricots, etc. Le reste sera de farine, que vous pêtrirez tout ensemble jusqu’a ce que vôtre pâte soit bien maniable; & vous en dresserez des biscotins de differentes figures, les une ronds, les autres longs, en lacs d’amour, chifres & autre chose. Vous les ferez cuire à petit feu; & quand vous voyez qu’ils le sont & d’un roux un peu coloré, vous les retirez. Pour les detacher, vous humectez la feüille de papier par derriere avec de l’eau, & vous en venez à bout aisément; il faut le faire sur le champ.

Autre maniere de Biscotins
Prenez une demi-livre de sucre; faites-le cuire dans une petite poële à la plume. Etant cuit, vous l’ôterez du feu, & peserez trios quarterons de farine que vous mettrez dedans vôtre sucre, à la reserve d’une poignée que vous garderez pour la manier sur la tables. Ayant mis vôtre farine dans vôtre sucre, vous la remuërez bien avec la gâche: quand vôtre pâte sera bien délayée, vous la tirerez de la poële, & mettrez sur une table bien nette, là où vous aurez semé un peu de farine auparavant; il la faut bien remüer; en même temps vous filerez vôtre pàte, & la cou-pour en faire de petites boules grosses comme le poûce: Cela vout être travaillé promtement; car quand la pâte est froide, on n’en peut plus venire à bout: les boules étant toutes faites, on les fait cuire dans le four sans papier; sur des feüilles de cuivre. Quand elles sont cuires, on les tire du four, & on les met dans un cornet de papier à l’etuve.

Autre maniere.
Vous prendrez une livre & demie de farine de froment: vous serez cuire vingt onces de sucre à la petite plume; vous le verserez dans un mortier; le laisserez refroidir après vous y mettrez la farine, six œufs frais & une cuillerée d’eau de fleur d’orange; batter le tout ensemble un quart-d’heure, & le tiret du mortier, le mettre dessus une table bien nette, & rouler ladite pâte en de petits pains, gros comme une noisette, & les faire cuire dans un four n.oderément chaud.

Friday, January 06, 2006

12th Night Ball

It's that time of year, the end of the winter holidays. Old Fort Niagara's 12th Night Ball is Saturday night, January 7th.

In New Orleans and Montreal and Paris 12th Night will be celebrated as Epiphany or Three Kings Day, January 6th. Part of the celebration will be the cutting of the King's Cake, a gallette du roi, made of frangipan and puff paste. To those of you lucky enough to find the fève in your piece, enjoy being king or queen for a day!

Sunday, April 24, 2005

Passover & Days of Unleavened Bread

Although the official position of the Roman Church in New France did not allow non-Catholics to remain within its territories, the British colonies did allow dissenters. Adherents of the French Protestant Church, commonly known as Huguenots, established colonies at New Rochelle and New Paltz in the Hudson Valley, New York; Philadelphia, Pennsylvania; and Charleston, South Carolina.

A weeklong Passover celebration, similar to the first century Church's Festival of Unleavened Bread, was kept by the Charleston congregation of the French Protestant Church in addition to Easter, as evidenced by its Liturgy, written down in 1713 and republished in 1737 and 1772. Several other Christian denominations have continued the Reformation journey by keeping Passover and the commemoration of the Ascension in the Wave Sheaf Offering, while dropping the observance of Easter.

The practices of the French Reformed Church in France are not available here in the colonies for study, but in the paintings of Raspal from the region of Arles in Provence, the prominent display of the Huguenot cross by his models suggests that the French Reformed Church was still alive and dynamic in the 18thC within Provence. Some French officers' journals state that the habitantes' costumes of New France reminded them of Provençals--this should have been doubly true of French Huguenots in the British colonies, suggesting that there should have been a similarity of religious practice. Now stretching the inference, it might be said that the French Reformed Church had a similar liturgy in Provence as in Charleston. Although the evidence of this is lacking, it can be clearly stated that the French Reformed Church in Charleston, SC, kept the Passover as a week-long festival and kept an eight-day festival observance in the seventh month (be sure and click the arrow for the next page to see the continuation), an observance similar to Succoth (or Feast of Tabernacles as kept by modern Christian fellowships that also keep the Passover).

Because the French Reformed Church in 18thC South Carolina kept a Passover festival, recipes intended for Passover and the Days of Unleavened Bread have a place in French Huguenot cuisine.
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