Friday, October 29, 2004
Sausage is a very good way of using up those bits and pieces of flesh that aren't pretty as a roast or a steak. A friend once said that there were no saucisse, sausages in Nouvelle France in the 18th Century because they did not have sausage stuffers. The Lewis & Clark journals describe a way that it may have been done, but I am too fumble fingers to do it. I use a large tin funnel and insert the long end into the casing and use a wood reemer to push the forcemeat through. In Savoring the Past: The French Kitchen and Table from 1300 to 1789, page 61, is an engraving of Winter, from the Four Seasons by Crispin de Passe after Martin de Vos, showing hanks of sausages in the border. So I will again use my spice mixture from her book, as I find the taste is very much as I remember from a child. My grandfather, Joseph Marie Blanc, was from Aymavilles, Aste, Italy, just over the border from France, and I make and eat these sausages in his memory. To see boudins being made, click here.
Soak 4 ft of beef casings for an hour in cold water and flush twice with a faucet
1 large onion, minced, sautéd in 2 tbls of butter, cool
In a large bowl, soak 1 c of freshly ground bread crumbs with 1/2 c light cream
Grind 8 oz of skinless chicken breasts with 8 oz of hamburger and 1 handful of duck or goose fat twice with the fine blade of meat grinder or use two knives brought down over the meat alternately with a rhythmic action to preserve the juices in the meat and to incorporate the meats and fat together
Add the meat to the large bowl of crumbs along with the onions.
Add 1 1/2 teas. mixed spices, 1 tbls salt and gresh ground white pepper to taste
Add two slightly beaten eggs and 2-4 tbls of brandy or white wine
Use your hands to completely mix the forcemeat together.
Tie one end of the casing into a knot and begin pushing the other end over the end of the funnel. Try to push evenly so as not to have air bubbles in your sausage. Twist it into 4-6 inch lengths and tie the other end with twine, as well as the twists in the lengths. Prick each link with a needle 2 times to keep the sausage from bursting during cooking.
Bring a large pot of water to boil into which you put a rib of celery with a sprig of thyme tied to it, a carrot sliced, one onion sliced and salt and pepper to taste. Once this broth is simmering, slowing let your sausages down into the liquid and cover with a ceramic plate to keep the sausages submerged. Cook gently for 1/2 hour. Remove and drain.
To serve, fry gently in butter until lightly brown and garnish with grilled onions.
Recipe from James Villas, The French Country Kitchen, p. 184.
Next: Making Quince Paste, pâte de coings, to save for the winter holidays.