Monday, December 30, 2013

Royal Saucissons, or thick sausages

Having provided Flesh of Partridges and of a fat Pullet or Capon, a little Gammon and other Bacon, and a piece of a Leg of Veal, all raw, with Parsly and Chibbols, let them be well chopt with Mushrooms and Truffles, and season'd with Pepper, Salt, beaten Spice, and a Clove of Garlick; adding also two whole Eggs, three or four Yolks and a little Milk-cream. Then roll up this Farce into thick pieces, according to the quantity that you have of it, and to the end that it may be dress'd, without breaking it, let it be wrapt up in very thin Slices cut out of a Fillet of Veal, and beaten flat upon the Dresser, for that purpose; so as the Sausages may be made at least as thick as a Man's Arm, and of a convenient length. When they are thus order'd, they must be put into an oval Stew-pan, with a great many Bards or thin Slices of Bacon at the bottom, and stopt up close; covering them with Beef-stakes, and other Bacon-Bards. Afterwards, the Pan must be set between two Fires, taking care that they be not too quick, and the Sausages must be bak'd or stew'd in this manner about eight or ten Hours. As soon as they are ready, let them be remov'd from the Fire, and left to cool in the same Pan: Then they must be carefully taken out so as none be broken, and all the Meat round about must be taken away, with the Fat: At last you may cut the Sausages into Slices with a sharp Knife, and set them in good order in a Dish or Plate, to be serv'd up cold to Table. If there be occasion to make a Galantine at the same time, with the Royal Sausages, it may be dress'd in the same Stew-pan.
The court & country cook, faithfully translated out of French into English by J. K. A. J. Churchill, London, 1702, p. 242-3.
One is only limited in the size of the sausage by the piece of pounded meat [here is chicken breast] used to wrap the farce and size of the covered Stew-pan or casserole in which to cook it. I used Summer Sausage as bards. Curing salt mixed with the beaten spice would have assured the sausage's pink appearance when cooked.

Thursday, November 21, 2013

Medlar or Nèfle Jelly

Our little medlar tree produced about 2 pounds of fruit this year. After bletting I made a jelly from this recipe. I can only describe the flavor as a cross between honey and date … indescribably delicious. Next year I plan to make some liqueur, as well. Image from wikipedia.

Wednesday, November 20, 2013

Cervelat or Cervelas--The Original Cold Cut

Cervelat, or Cervelas, a large kind of Sausage, well season'd and eaten cold in slices.
The Court & Country Cook, François Massialot, 1702, «C» A Table Explaining the Terms of Art, &c.

Summer sausage is it's modern equivalent, but we are really talking about «cold cuts» of previously cooked, smoked or fermented Charcuterie.

Monday, November 18, 2013

Chickens à la Mazarine

Known today as chicken-fried «steak»,I submit with pleasure, Chickens à la Mazarine.

Cut your Chickens, as if it were to make a white Fricassy, and set them a broiling upon the Coals; as the broil'd or fried Pigeons mentioned under the Letter P, with all sorts of fine Herbs: All being dress'd, let them be neatly breaded and afterwards broil'd upon a Grid-iron. They may serve either for separate Dishes, or to garnish others, and are set hot upon the Table for a Side-dish; but they are not commonly fry'd, as Pigeons may be order'd. Many call these Chickens, Pigeons and other Fowls that are dress'd in this manner, Pieces à la Sainte Menehout*. 'Tis requisite that the Bread, with which Chickens are breaded, be fine and white, to the end that it may take a good color when they are broil'd.
The Court & Country Cook, François Massialot, 1702, p. 83.

*SAINT MENEHOUT: The nomenclature indicated, as it still does in French cookery, something egg-and-breadcrumbed and then fried or broiled. A good number of Nott’s receipts, all of French derivation, call for this treatment. Sainte-Menehould is a small town in the Champagne district. Whether the method of cookery is called after the town or the saint herself is not recorded. (John Nott, 1726) 11-18-2013

Sunday, November 17, 2013

Quince Pie

A simple pie from the few Portugal quince I grew this year. Just a simple crust and a few dollops of butter added to the cooked quince with sugar--resulting in a rich, deep red color and exquisite flavor.

Friday, April 12, 2013

Saliere ou Poivriere

Just in from France on the Spring canoes …

Item 30 [Planche II, Diderot, attelier de fayancerie.] Une saliere ou poivriere à l'usage des tables, faite pour contenir l'un & l'autre. A salt box or pepper plate used at table, made to contain both.

Thursday, January 24, 2013

Cabarets - a footed tray

Footed trays were called cabarets and were used in the service of coffee, tea and chocolate.
The Chocolate Girl, Jean-Etienne Liotard, 1745
Le bon usage du thé, du caffé et du chocolat,Blegny, Nicolas de (1643?-1722), p.168.
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