Puff Paste -- Pâte de Feüilletage

Pâte de feüilletage Massialot's Les Confitures (1717), p. 217.

Faites une pâte à l’ordinaire, avec de la farine, de l’eau, du sel, & si vous voulez quelques jaunes d’œufs: quand vôtre pâte est bien petrie & renduë bien maniable; vous l’étendez sur le tour avec vôtre rouleau, en long d’une bonne épaisseur; vous le couvrez ensuite d’autant de bon beurre: & ayant renversé l’un des bouts sur l’autre, que cela renferme tout le beurre en-dedans; vous la détendrez une seconde fois, la replirez, & la détendrez de rechef avec le rouleau, continuant ainsi jusqu’a cing ou six fois: sur trois livres de farine, vous y mettez deux livres & demie de bon beurre frais.

Cette pâte est propre pour d’autres tourtes qu’on auroit à faire hors d’un dessert, où ce n’est point l; ordre de rien servir où il entre du beurre. On en peut aussi faire des feüillantines [ ] & des mazatines[tartlets of mashed potatoes, eggs and butter; filled wth a hash]; qui sont des petites tartes de la largeur de la paûme de la main; que l’on replit aussi de confiture, pour garnir quelque autre tourte plus grande pour l’entremets: & si c’est pour le dessert, on en peur faire avec des abaisses croquantes, comme ci-devant.

Method for preparing puff-pastry
Let some paste be made after the usual manner, with flour, water, salt, and if you please, the yolk of an egg. As soon as it is well kneaded, and made very pliable; roll it out upon the table, of a convenient length and thickness. Then cover it with as much good butter, and having turned one of the ends upon the other, so as all the butter may be enclosed on the inside, roll it again, continuing to do the same thing five or six times. Two pounds and a half of good fresh butter ought to be allowed for every three pounds of flour.

This sort of paste is proper for other tarts/tourtes/pies that are brought to table without a dessert, in which it is not customary to serve up anything that is prepared with butter. However, feuillantines [small individual pies--think turnovers], feuillantins[think Napoleans - sheets of puff pastry] and mazarines [small, pressed or molded tart shells], which are certain small tarts of the breadth of the palm of a man’s hand, may be made ot it, being ususally filled with sweet-meats, to garnish some other pie of a larger size, set among the intermesses; but if these little tarts are designed for the dessert, they may be made of crackling crust [marzipan or pistachio].

Very good on-line instruction in French and in English, with pictures and video for making puff-paste can be found here.

Gene Hunting in Canada--Quebec "founder" population

"In the 17th century, 15,000 French immigrants bravely made their way to eastern Canada. Some headed further west, many returned to France, but a hardy few stayed in Quebec. Starting with a total of just 2,600 people between 1608 and 1760, this group would grow 800-fold over the next 10 or so generations, with little marriage outside the group. The result is the Quebec "founder" population -- a genetically homogenous group of individuals that is ideally suited to the genetic study of disease."

Read more of this fascinating article here.

My thanks to Franco-American News & Events, 4 for drawing my attention to this post.

Leftovers

Sometimes all you have in the kitchen is a piece of this and some of that. Derrick asked me to find a use for that stale bread in the panetiere.

I “freshened” the bread by drying it even further to a golden color before crushing into crumbs. I added a pinch of dried dill weed and some melted butter and patted it into a pie pan for crust.

A piece of flaked, smoked salmon and some eggs, cream, sauteed onions and more dill weed poured into the crust made for a very tasty quiche. Bake in a slow oven until center is set.

Serve cold with sour cream and more dill.

You are a dainty Violet . . .

Title from A Meditation for his Mistress by Robert Herrick, 1591-1674

“These are the two months of the year [March & April] that afford matter for new comfits, that is to say, violets, which are the first flowers of a fragrant smell that the earth brings forth, after it has been delivered from the tyranny of the sharp winter.”

Eau de Violette
Prenez de la violette une quantité suffisante; par exemple, deux bonne poignées pour deux pintes de liqueur, epluchez-les, & les meetez dans de l’eau, avec une demi-livre de sucre; & étant infuse du matin au soir, ou pendant cinq ou six heures, vous coulerez vôtre liqueur à travers quelque linge, ou seulement au tamis, & la mettre glacer.

Violet Water
Take a sufficient quantity of violet; for example, two good handfuls for two quarts of liquor, peel them [strip flowers from stems and leaves], & put them in [two quarts ] of water, with a quarter or half a pound of sugar; & infuse from morning till evening, or during five or six hours; strain your liquor through some [white] linen, or only with the sieve, & to put it to ice [bottle and set back in a cool, dark place].
* * *
Sirop Violet
Prenez une livre de violette épluchée, & la pilez dans un mortier, avec un demi-verre d’eau, afin que cela la puisse un peu humecter: ensuite faites cuire quatre livres de sucre à perlé; & étant à cette caisson, vous le descendrez de dessus le fue, & laisserez rabaisser le bouillon; puis vous y mettrez votre violette, & délayerez bien le tout: vous le passerez ensuite par un linge bien fin, recevant vôtre sirop dans une terrine; & quand il ser froid, vous le mettrez dans des bouteilles.

Pour le marc qui vous restera, prenez deux livres de sucre, que vous serez cuite à perlé; & quand le bouillon sera rabaissé, vous y jetterez vôtre marc, & délayerez bien le tout; puis le mettrez dans un pot, pour vous en server quand vous voudrez faire des pâtes & de la conserve de violette, comme il a été dit ailleurs.

La meilleure violetter pour cela, est celle qui est d’un violet vermeil, & non pale, & d’une odeur tres-suave, il la faut cueillir le matin, qu’il n’ait pas plu, & auparavant que le soleil ait dissipé sa vertu.

Violet Syrup
Take a pound of violet flowers, and crush them in a mortar, with half a glass of water, to moisten them a little, while four pounds of sugar are brought to the pearled quality: then taking the pan off from the fire, as soon as the boiling sinks, throw in your violets and stir all together. Afterwards you are to press the mixture through a fine linen cloth, so the syrup may be collected in an earthenware pan, and put into bottles when cold.

The mass that remains may then be slipped into two pounds of pearled sugar, after its boiling has settled; when well mixed, pour it into a pot. This sugary mixture can be used in the making of pastes and conserve of violets, according to the instructions elsewhere laid down. The best violets for this purpose are of a dark purple color, not pale, and of a very sweet scent. They ought to be gathered in the morning, when no rain has fallen, and before the sun had impaired their virtue.
* * *
Conserve de Violette
Vous prendrez de la violette la plus belle, vous en pe-serrez deux onces que vous pilerez dans un mortier: en la pilant mettez y une petite goute de jus de citron. Vous serrez cuire une livre de sucre a la premiere plume, vous le lasserez un peu refroidir, & remuërez avac une cuiillier trios ou quatre tours, & y mettez la fleur dedans; la remuer encore un tour, & la dresser. Quand vous en aurez verse un moule, si vous voulez déguiser le reste, presses y promtement un peu de jus de citron, le remuer avec la cuilllier, & le verser dans un autre moule.

Conserve of Violets
Take the most beautiful violets, two well-packed ounces which you will then crush in a mortar while adding a few drops of lemon juice. Cook a pound of sugar to the first feather, allow it to cool slightly while stirring three or four turns, & then put the flowers in; stir till crystals begin to form around the edge of the pan. Pour immediately into moulds. If you want to use the remainder [clinging to the pan], add a few drops of lemon juice and stir to dissolve, & to pour it in another mould.
* * *
Pâtes de Violette
Prenez une livre de violette épluchée; pilez la dans un mortier, & mettez-y une goute ou deux de jus de citron en la pilant; mettez la dans un plat, & joignez-y denx ou trios cuillerées de marmalade de pommes: faites cuire du sucre à la plume, & en mettez dans vôtre marmalade le quantitez qu’il en faut, en délayant doucement avec une cuillier: faites la fremir, & la dresses à demi-froide, dans voc mouls, ou sur des ardoises; & les mettre à l’Etuve, & les finir comme les autres: en les retournant, poudrez les legerement de sucre.

Violet Paste
Take a pound of violet flowers; crush in a mortar, while adding several drops of lemon juice; put it in a dish, & add two or three spoonfuls of apple marmalade [or jelly]. Cook one pound of sugar to the feather, & add in your violet and marmalade mixture, stir gently: cook gently and at a low heat, & draw it up [cook until most moisture is gone and the bottom of the pan can be seen when drawing a spoon through the paste]; pour onto a slate or marble or into moulds; & put them in the Drying oven. When dry, turn them in powdered sugar to cover all the paste edges.
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Pastilles de Violette, & autres
Pour leur donner la couleur & l’odeur de violette, vous d’etrempez d’indigo & de l’iris, & vous mêlez cette eau avec vôtre gomme, quand elle est fondue & dans le mortier. Vous y ajoûtez ensuite du sucre fin en poudre; & continuez de tourner & bien démêler le tout, tant que vous a yez une pâte maniable. On en forme ensuite des pastilles rondes, en batons, & lacs-d’amour; & on les finit comme les autres.

Si on en veut faire des rouge, il n’y a qu’a y mettre de la cochenille preparée en pisant le pâte, ou bien une cuillerée de marmalade d’epine-vinette, qui soit d’un beau rouge.

Violet Pastilles
To give them the color & the odor of violet, steep some indigo & orris with your violets, & mix this water with your gum [Arabic]; when it is dissolved add fine powdered sugar; & continue to turn & pound in your mortar until you have a handy paste. Form them as round pastilles, in sticks, & tongues of love; finish them like the others [roll in powdered sugar].

If you want a red color, prepare cochineal by making a paste, or a spoonful of marmalade of berberis, which is of a beautiful red.

From Massialot's Les Confitures (1717), translation (c) 2006, Carolyn Smith-Kizer.

Tangy & Sweet With a Kick!

Today is Sugar High Friday, the dream child of Jennifer, and to console a friend in the doldrums, I served fresh fromage blanc with a ladle of last summer's Bachelor Jam or confiture, also known to some as Rumtopf.

The fruits were all now shades of a rich red and the ruby liqueur was sweet, thick and abundant. Drizzled over fresh, tangy fromage blanc the liqueur and fruit made a lovely dessert.

Needless to say, Madame Blanche has now left my table in a somewhat blissful state!

Maple Syrup and Sugar Candy

After boiling the syrup down for about 9 hours, I was able to put away many quarts of syrup.



As a treat for the children, I always introduce crystals into the last of the syrup to cause maple sugar to form. Not only does the maple candy taste wonderful, but it keeps much longer than syrup, which sometimes can mold before it's eaten.

I will use the syrup as a binder and flavor for ground meat dishes, such as pâté and boudin. Crushed maple sugar can be used in many dishes and is a special treat for all ages.

Pâté en croûte de poulet et de chou

Sauté a déchiqueté le chou et a coupé les oignons jusqu'à mou et l'offre dans un skillet. Assaisonnez avec les menues epices et le sel pour goûter ; mettez de côté dans une cuvette séparée. Le lambeau avec deux froids de fourchettes ou de cube a fait cuire le poulet fini gauche. Ajoutez au mélange de chou.

Ajoutez le beurre et/ou l'huile d'olive au skillet et le beurre brun pour la saveur. Ajoutez la farine à la casserole et éraflez vers le haut et remuez constamment jusqu'à ce que de la farine soit légèrement brunie. Ajoutez le bouillon de poulet et le vin blanc au skillet et remuez jusqu'à d'une uniformité crémeuse de sauce ; sel et poivre à goûter. Pliez dans le mélange de chou et de poulet. Transformez en casserole de pâté en croûte rayée avec le brisée de pâté. Couverture avec une croûte supérieure de brisée de pâté. Bords et brosse de cuir embouti avec l'oeuf battu. Faites cuire au four jusqu'à d'or et à pétillant. Servez chaud ou froid.
* * * * *
Chicken & Cabbage Pie

Sauté shredded cabbage and chopped onions until limp and tender in a skillet. Season with menues epices and salt to taste; set aside in a separate bowl. Shred with two forks or cube cold cooked left over chicken. Add to cabbage mixture.

Add butter and/or olive oil to skillet and brown butter for flavor. Add flour to pan and scrape up and stir constantly until flour is slightly browned. Add chicken broth and white wine to skillet and stir until of a creamy sauce consistency; salt and pepper to taste. Fold into cabbage and chicken mixture. Turn into a pie pan lined with pâté brisée. Cover with a top crust of pâté brisée. Crimp edges and brush with beaten egg. Bake until golden and bubbly. Serve hot or cold.

The Old Foodie

I must share a new food blog that I've just found--The Old Foodie. I can see some wonderful tidbits of information and food history spilling forth from her pen. I'm particularly intrigued by the possibilities of English-English, or American-English or . . .

Enjoy!

Sugaring Time

I’ve been hard at work drilling holes and inserting wooden tubes from which maple sap can flow into my containers. It takes roughly 40 times more sap than I shall end up with in syrup or sugar. That’s a lot of time slaving over a hot fire waiting for the evaporation to turn my clear sap into dark golden syrup.

Here is a wonderful site on maple sugaring history. Keep watch for recipes using maple syrup and sugar to follow.

Fromage Glacé

Andrew chose dairy for this month's Sugar High Friday, Jennifer's monthly sweet treat. Here is the 18thC answer to ice cream!

"If French confectioners brought ice cream to the attention of the world by serving it at the French court, these same confectioners also codified the art of making ice cream so that, by the middle of the eighteenth century, numerous books could be consulted on ice cream making from A to Z." Ice Cream from families.com

Autre Fromage Glacé
Prenez une chopine de Crême douce, foüettez-la bien, et délayez-la avec un petit Fromage caillé; mettez-y du sucre raisonnablement, et un peu d’eau de fleur d’orange; passez le tout au travers d’un tamis: ensuite mettez-le dans un moule pour le faire glacer, . . . . Vous pouvez diversifier le goût et la couleur, en y mettant selon les saisons, comme fraises, framboises, ou fleurs d’orange en feüilles, que vous mêlez avec vôtre crême en la passant au tamis. La fleur d’orange ne passe point, mais y laisse son goût. En hiver on le fait cuire, comme le premier fromage glacé, et on luy donne le goût de canella, de chocolat, de citron, ou d’essence de bergamotte.

Massialot's Les Confitures (1717), p. 284.

Iced Cheese, another way
Take a pint of Sweet cream, whip it well, and fold it into 6 ounces of curdled cream [Cream cheese]; add sugar to taste, and a little water of orange flower; pass the whole through a sieve: then put it in a mould and freeze. You can diversify the taste and the color, by adding ingredients according to the seasons, like strawberries, raspberries, or orange flower petals, which you mix with yours creams while passing through the sieve. The orange flower does not pass, but leaves its taste there. In winter one cooks the mixture as in custard, and one uses cinnamon, chocolate, lemon, or oil of bergamotte (orange flower water).

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Potted Cheese

What to do with those tiny rinds and bits of left-over or dried out cheese? Grind and mash them with some butter, even a few bits of shallot or garlic and use to spread on bread before toasting for croutons in salad or soup or dab on grilling meats to impart a piquant glaze. Bits of bleu cheese make for a very tasty mixture.

If you really feel decadent, eat it by the spoon straight out of the crock and wash it down with a chope [mug] of beer!

Foie Gras Grilled

What to do with those little trimmings off the lobes of that expensive foie gras?

Dredge them in bread crumbs and grill in a pan to catch all that lovely flavor and juice. Grill on both sides just until it loses its pinkness and deglaze the pan with a teaspoon of juice from lemon confit.

If you do not achieve enough liquid for a sauce, add a spoon or two of water. Pour over grilled foie gras and garnish with a julienne of preserved lemon.

Here is a recipe for grilled foie gras from La Varenne's The French Cook, p.93.

#51 Foie Gras on the gridiron
Put it on the gridiron, and powder it with crumbs of bread and salt. After it is broiled, powre the juice of a Lemon upon it, and serve.

Purchase fresh or frozen foie gras from Enjoy Foie Gras.

Pâté de foie gras

Soul food for me is liver pâté on good bread served with either cornichons or a glass of vin noix, which I find tastes like a fine port.

It’s cold here, the coldest it’s been all year. So yesterday I took some livers out of the frozen cache and made pâté. I soaked them in some fresh cold water to thaw, then drained and patted them dry with a towel.

To Make Pâté:
Crush and mince one fat clove of garlic and sauté in butter or graisse along with one small onion or two shallots minced until just golden. Put one sprig of thyme and one bay leaf in the pan and bruise the bay leaf in the hot oil to release the flavor. Add one cup of water and bring to a simmer. Place about one pound of livers gently into the simmering liquid and cook just until livers lose their pinkness.

Remove sprig of thyme and bay leaf. Using your écumoire or skimmer, strain all of the solids into a bowl, reserving the liquid in the pan. Use your masher to combine all solids into a paste in the bowl. While the paste is still warm, mash in ½ cup of butter. Season mousse with pepper and salt and a spoonful of brandy to your taste. Pour into a small bowl or terrine and tap on the table to remove air bubbles. At this point is it necessary to cover the top of the mousse with a layer of melted butter or calve’s foot jelly* to keep it from darkening. Put in the cold room to set and develop flavor.

After serving, if you still have leftovers, seal again with melted butter to maintain color of mousse.

calve’s foot jelly* Add a cube of jelly to the pan liquid and bring to a boil, stirring to melt the jelly. Strain and pour over mousse carefully to keep the surface intact.

Caroline has a wonderful article on foie gras that explains all the ins and outs of this marvelous treat.

Purchase readymade foie gras mousse from Enjoy Foie Gras.

Celery Fried with Pepper

"Kay was reading Letters of a Loyalist Lady Being the Letters of Anne Hulton, sister of Henry Hulton, Commissioner of Customs at Boston, 1767-1776 (Harvard University Press, 1927). What a fascinating read! And only 750 copies printed. . . . "'We put in the Green house last fall 500 heads of the finest Celery that ever was seen here.'"

There appear to be some seven people in the household and no evidence so far of their selling or bartering any of their crops, so what do you think was done with 500 heads of celery? It seems a large amount IMHO. I understand that celery would be a much-used item (somewhere I have a receipt for braised celery of the period), but it still seems like a lot." Message #6689 from 18thC Woman's list.

French gardeners found that much of the too-strong flavor of celery could be eliminated, making the stalks better for salad use and not just medicine, by growing the plants in late summer and fall, then keeping them into the winter. In winter, fried celery makes a great accompaniment to game dishes, making use of sometimes withered stalks.

Here is a recipe for celery in oil with pepper from La Varenne's The French Cook, p.183.

"19. Celeris It is eaten with pepper and salt, or with oile, pepper, and salt."

Slice the tops and stalks of celery in about 1/2 inch slices and fry in a good oil or oil and butter until lightly carmelized. Season with salt and freshly cracked pepper. Serve with game dishes as a side vegetable

Navettes for Candlemas

It is February, 40 AD, and Mary Magdalene, Jesus Mother', and Lazarus have just come ashore in Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, near Marseilles. A small unleavened cake in the shape of their boat is eaten at Candlemas to commemorate their landing. You will find a recipe for navettes here. The small cakes keep well and have a delicate flavor. Enjoy.