Showing posts with label potages. Show all posts
Showing posts with label potages. Show all posts

Thursday, October 30, 2008

Julian

The Julian is a very considerable Potage, and may be made in this manner: Having roasted a Leg of Mutton, let the Fat and Skin be taken away, and let it be put into a Kettle or Pot, of a sufficient bigness to hold some Broth for the Potage. Then add a good piece of Beef; another of a Fillet of Veal; a fat Capon; Carrets, Turneps and Parsneps, two of each; Parsly-roots, Celery and an Onion Stuck with Cloves; and let all boil together a long while, to the end that your Broth may be sufficiently enrich'd. In the Mean time, another Pot must be provided, and therein three or four Bundles of Asparagus, as much Sorrel as my be cut with a Knife at two strokes and some Chervil. Let them be well boil'd with some Broth taken out of the great Pot, and when the Crusts are soak'd, let the Asparagus and Sorrel be laid in order upon them, but nothing round about.

Julian-Potages are also made of a Breast of Veal, Capons, fat Pullets, Pigeons and other sorts of Meat: When they are well prepar'd and scalded, let them be put into a Pot with good Broth and a Bunch of fine Herbs; afterwards adding the above-mentioned Roots and Pulse; which may also serve to garnish the Potage, with Heaps of Asparagus chopt into pieces, and nothing else, but what is green, such as green Pease, etc.
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The court & country cook, faithfully translated out of French into English by J. K. A. J. Churchill, London, 1702, p. 140.

Monday, October 27, 2008

Casseroles

Casseroles, take their Name from the Stew-pan in which they are dress'd, call'd Casserole by the French, and are generally used for Side-dishes and Potages: For the former, take a large Loaf wash'd over with Eggs, which must not be chipt on the upper side; bore a Hole therein underneath, and take away the Crum or Pith. Afterwards prepare a good Hash of roasted Chickens, fat Pullets, or some other sort of Roast-meat, and put this Meat well minc'd into a Stew-pan, with good Gravy, as if it were to make a Hash. When it is dress'd, put some of it with a Spoon into the Loaf, that was roasted at the Fire; on the crummy side: After having thus pour'd in a little of this Hash, add some small Crusts of Bread, and proceed to fill up the Loaf alternately, with the Hash and small Pieces of Crust. Then take a Stew-pan that is no bigger than your Loaf; put a Sheet of Paper into it, or rather, some Bards or thin Slices of Bacon, and afterwards the Loaf on that side where it was farc'd; covering the bottom of it, with the same Loaf. Let it lye a soaking in this manner, with good Gravy; but it must not be too much press'd, nor too long steept, so that it may be kept altogether entire, and well cover'd. A little before 'tis serv'd up to Table, turn it out dextrously into a Dish, take away the Bacon-Bards, drain off the Fat, and cover your Loaf with a good Ragoo of Veal-sweet-breads, Artichoke-bottoms and Truffles; small tops of Asparagus being also spread round about the Dish, according to the Season.
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The court & country cook, faithfully translated out of French into English by J. K. A. J. Churchill, London, 1702, p. 80-81.

See also: Stuffed Bread

Thursday, February 01, 2007

Middle-class Soups - Potages Bourgeois

Cover a good piece of beef [a haunch or a slice], with water in a cooking pot, & when the pot boils half an hour, after skimming the foam, add mutton, a knuckle of veal, & poultry as much as you want; also add salt & three cloves, & let it boil [again until meats are tender]. One hour or half an hour before serving, add herbs with a few cucumbers or root vegetables according to the season, & [some] verjuice: *[ladle] soup onto croutons or [slices or pieces] of dried bread in a serving bowl, simmer on embers [slowly re-warm], & add bouillon as it is consumed [the bread absorbs it].

*Before adding soup to bread, one can add to [hot] soup two egg yolks [beaten] with half-glass of verjuice & a little bouillon, stirring them in well to set the egg.

The title of this soup, middle-class or Bourgeois, infers that there is a difference in the soup of the lower class. This is, indeed, true. This soup has meat, in fact, more than one type of meat. Although this soup would be usual at the table of the gentry living in the country (as the title of the book implies [The New Country House]), the servants or the lower class would most likely not have meat(s) in their soups, but simple fare of vegetables and grains. Notice though that the gentry also sop up the last drop of broth with bread, using bread as an integral part of the soup. Waste not, want not.

La nouvelle maison rustique, ou, Économie generale de tous les biens de campagne: la manière de les entretenir & de les multiplier : donée ci-devant au public / par le Sieur Louis Liger. Paris : Saugrain, 1755, Tome II, IV. Part. LIV. IV. Chap. I. La Cuisine. B., p. 840.

Potages Bourgeois
Mettez de l’eau dans une marmite avec un bon morceau de bœuf de cimier ou de tranche, faites-la écumer, & quand le pot aura bouilli une demi-heure, mettez-y du mouton, un jarret de veau, & une volaille se vous en voulez; ajoutez-y du sel & trios clous de girofle, & le laissez bouillir. Une heure ou demi-heure avant que de dresser, vous mettrez des herbes avec un peu de concombres ou de raciness suivant la saison, & du verjus en grain: ayant dressé le potage sur des croutons ou du pain séché, faites-le mitonner sur de la braise, & mettez du bouillon à mesure qu’il sera consommé. On peut ajouter au potage deux jaunes d’œufs délayés avec demi-verre du verjus & un peu de bouillon, les ayant fait un peu blanchir auparavant sur le feu, & les verser sur le potage.
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