Amandes vertes--Green Almonds

Green Almonds Preserved. Choose almonds green and tender, slightly peel them, drill them with a big needle and put them in cold water. Blanche the fruit in boiling water, drain and rub between cloths to remove down; let them soak for 2 hours in cold water, which you will renew several times, drain again, put them in terrines, cover with boiling sugar syrup (25 degrees density) and a round of paper; drop in the cellar. Give eight ways with almonds, adding each time a little syrup and increasing by 2 degrees the density of syrup, which must be 6 to 37 degrees at the last way. Make sure sugar broth covers fruit at all times. Let them stand for twelve to fifteen days prior to the eighth way. Finish as for other fruits.

Green Almonds. Take green almonds preserved in brandy; being drained dip them one after another in sugar prepared au cassé (twelfth degree), and roll them in white nonpareils, or of any other color, or several colors mixed together, and dry them in the stove, or in a soft oven. They are also done after this manner—cut them into two or four pieces, put them on a baking-plate rubbed with oil, and pour some hot sugar caramelized over; turn them to do the same over again and keep them in a very dry place.

Green almond tarts. Pull the almonds from the tree before they shell, scrape off the down, and put them into a pan with cold spring water; then put them into a skillet with more spring water; set it on a slow fire, and let it remain till it simmers. Change the water twice, and let them remain in the last till tender, then take them out, and dry them well in a cloth. Make a syrup with double refined sugar, put them into it and let them simmer; do the same the next day, put them into a stone jar, and cover them very close, for if the least air comes to them they will turn black; the yellower they are before they are taken out of the water, the greener they will be after they are done. Put them into the crust, cover them with syrup, lay on the lid, and bake them in a moderate oven.
* * * * *Recipes collected from friends and relatives* * * * *


GREEN ALMOND CONSERVE

For true aficionados of green almonds, the prime moment is when the seed case has just begun to plump, the interior is still liquid, and there is no hint of a shell. The whole almond, including the green hull, is served chilled, sometimes in salted ice water, and eaten with a little salt.

In this recipe the green almonds are chopped and combined in a spiced mixture with dates and raisins to make a conserve. The intense almond taste contrasts well with the dense, rich background of the other ingredients. The conserve can be spread on buttered bread for teatime or spooned alongside grilled eggplant and peppers for a sweet-and-savory combination. It also makes a good filling for cookies.


50 to 60 green almonds at the soft nut stage (about 1 1/2 pounds), or 1/2 cup unsalted mature shelled almonds
1 cup raisins
1 cup distilled white vinegar
1 cup loosely packed brown sugar
8 to 10 large Medjool dates (about 1/2 pound), pitted and coarsely chopped
1 cup water
6 whole cloves, crushed

Using a sharp knife, slice through the green almonds lengthwise, splitting the interior nut in half. Pick out the ivory nut halves with the knife tip and set aside. Do not be concerned if some of the nuts are still in the semi-liquid stage. Set aside 8 halves and coarsely chop the remainder. If you are using mature almonds, chop all of them.

Combine the raisins and the vinegar in a nonreactive saucepan and let stand for 10 minutes. Place over medium-low heat, bring to a simmer, and cook for 5 to 6 minutes. Add the sugar, dates, water, and cloves and cook for another 5 minutes. Then add the green or mature almonds and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. The mixture will be rather thick and dense.

Remove from the heat and spoon into a hot, dry, sterilized jar with a lid. Tuck the reserved green almond halves along the walls of the jar, making a decorative band or arrangement. Cover with the lid.

Store in the refrigerator. The conserve will keep for up to 2 weeks.

Makes 1 pint.


[recipe from The Glass Pantry, Georgeanne Brennan]seen on gourmetsleuth.com


Buy Green Almonds
Buy Preserved Almonds

mere de vinaigre--vinegar mother

I just received some mere de vinaigre--vinegar mother from a generous friend, some for white, rosé and red wine vinegar and I can hardly wait to try Christine's instructions over at holy basil. I'll keep you posted on the results.

Houblon - Hops Shoots

A delicious spring green, similar in taste to asparagus, is houblon or hops, the shoots of which can be eated steamed, braised or fried. The male flowers can also be eaten in salads. The female cones are used later in the season to impart a certain bitter flavor to beer.

Of the Pastes of Fruits

It is only requisite to have recourse to the particular Marmelades, of every sort of Fruit, described in the fore-going Chapter, to know how to make as many Pastes; in regard that it is almost the same thing, and the whole Work is brought to Perfection by drying those Marmelades. To that purpose, when the Business requires dispatch, the Sugar must boil, till it be crack'd, or at least, greatly Feathered; to be incorporated with the dried Fruit. Afterwards, the Marmelade being made according to Art; may be taken up with a Spoon, and dress'd upon Slates, or in Moulds, in order to be dried in the Stove, with a good Fire. In the Evening, or the next Day, they must be turn'd on the other side, and laid again upon the same Slates, or upon Sieves: As soon as these Pastes are become very firm and compact, they are to be lock'd up in Boxes, and may be us'd, as Occasion requires.
    At other times, when you would have any Paste dryed, let as much Marmelade, as you shall think fit, be put into a Copper-pan, and having caus'd some Sugar to be brought to its Feathered Quality, pour it in; tempering it well till it slips off from the bottom of the Pan; after the same manner, as in the making of Marmelade. Then let all simper together, for a while, and let the Paste be immediately dress'd upon Slates, or in Tin-moulds, made in form of a Heart, Square, Flower-de-luce, etc., which are usually set into the Stove, to be dried as before. These are the general Directions that me be given, for the ordering of such Fruit-pastes as are made of Marmelades; allowing two Pounds of Sugar, for every Pound of Fruit. But for other Pastes, that are made on purpose, an equal quantity of each will be sufficient, and the Sugar must be boil'd till it has attain'd to its Crack'd Quality.

New Instructions for Confectioners, faithfully translated out of French into English by J. K. A. J. Churchill, London, 1702, p. 81-82.

May for the Confectoiner . . .

In this Month green Goose-berries first appear, of which Compotes and Jellies are made: They are also preserv'd liquid for the rest of the Year, either for Tarts, or to be serv'd up again in Compote, upon certain Occasions.

Green Apricocks come about the same time; affording Matter likewise for Compotes, Pastes and Marmelades: But they are chiefly preserv'd dry, and kept for a considerable time.

Green Almonds, which belong to the same Season, may be order'd after as many different manners, viz. for Compotes, Pastes and Marmelades, as well as preserv'd dry or liquid, in order to be us'd upon any emergent Occasion.

Straw-berries begin likewise to appear, which may be serv'd up, not only in their natural Condition, but also in Compotes, to diversifie the former Banquets.

New Instructions for Confectioners, faithfully translated out of French into English by J. K. A. J. Churchill, London, 1702, p. 11.

Using "leftover" greens

I have been toying with the ends of the romaine heads, chopping them into shreds and then combinging them with cheese, bread crumbs, aromatics . . . then using the mixture to stuff vegetables and pasta before baking. I like the texture and crunch the ends of the lettuces give to stuffings. My husband commented that a touch of citrus zest may allay the excess "greeness" taste when baking in vegetables. Now this is quite a suggestion, since he often thinks I use too much zest . . . I'll give it a try next time.

Cleaning Copper

It's time to get my copper preserving pan out and to clean the inside in preparation for the fruit pastes, jellies and marmelades I have in mind to make this season. The under or outside of the pan is a bit dark and discolored from sitting over the coals, which cannot be helped, so I'm mainly concerned with the inside. Keeping the inside immaculate and shiny will prevent any copper contamination from ruining my confitures.
To clean copper, make a paste of flour, salt and vinegar; rub all over the surface to be cleaned and leave to set for 15 minutes to half an hour. Rinse well with fresh water and dry thoroughly if not to be used immediately.

Pot Herb Pie--A Spring Tonic

Nicholas Bonnefons recommend a wide variety of greens for pies: spinach, which he deemed to be excellent, orache, chicory, white beet or Swiss chard and finally a small amount of sorrel and purslane to heighten the flavor. In 1615, Champlain planted cabbages, white beets and other necessary herbs in Nouvelle France.

Pot Herb Pie
1 pound of mixed greens (dandelions would be good, as well)
2 eggs
1 pint bechamel (white sauce)
nutmeg
salt and pepper
lemon zeste
icing sugar and rose water--a sprinkle of each

Remove stems from greens. Boil in salted water for 5 minutes. Drain, chop and squeeze dry. Make bechamel by stirring milk into a roux of butter and flour--grate in nutmeg and lemon zeste. Simmer until thick. Beat eggs and stir in greens. Add to bechamel. Pour into pie shell of fine pastry. Sprinkle with a dusting of powdered sugar and a drizzle of rose water. Bake in a moderate oven. Remove from oven and allow to set for 10 minutes before slicing to serve.* * * * *Recipe adapted from A Taste of History, the Origins of Québec's Gastronomy. Marc Lafrance & Yvon Desloges, Les Éditions de la Chenelière inc., Québec, 1989, p. 19

Ginger Candy - Gingembre Confit

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This month’s Sugar High Friday is hosted by La Petite Boulangette whose theme is Asian Sweet Invasion. The spice traders brought many delicious, nutritious and medicinal products to Europe, one of which is ginger. When you are feeling a bit low, nothing will perk you up quite like a nugget of ginger candy and a cup of hot China tea.

GINGER CANDIES: Crush some crystallized ginger, your choice of nutmeat, maybe some flower petals in a mortar until well blended. Form into squares or balls and roll in freshly crushed sugar. To preserve, pack between papers in a wood box. They will keep indefinitely.

GINGER: root of a plant which grows in India & in the Antilles; its taste is bitter & aromatic, it is used a great deal in the Antilles, where it holds the place of pepper, it excites the appetite. One eats it in salad in the places where it grows: here it is brought to us dry or candied.* * * * *GINGEMBRE: racine d’une plante qui croît dans l’Inde & aux Antilles; son gout est âcre & aromatique, on en fait un grand usage aux Antilles, où il tient lieu de poivre, il excite l’appétit. On le mange en salade aux lieux où il croît: on nous l’apporte ici sec ou confit.

Dictionnaire Portatif de Cuisine, d'Office, et de Distillation. Chez Vincent, Paris 1767, p. 306.

Animelles frites - or Rocky Mountain Oysters

Larousse Gastronomique includes animelles [testicles, also an item of offal or abats blancs] and oysters among its list of foods considered aphrodisiacs. In 18thC France, de Troy's the Oyster Luncheon, depicts men seated around a luncheon table surfeiting on oysters, presumably prior to their afternoon trysts. Rocky Mountain Oysters, testicles from sheep, as well as other animals, are deep fried and served up in mounds at annual Western male rendesvous, where testosterone abounds in its purest form. This post is in honor of Meat and Greet #1.

ANIMELLES: name for the testicles of the ram [sheep]. Usually served three ways.
    Cut them into four or eight pieces after removing the skin; dredge in crushed salt & flour; fry until crisp.
    Make a paste [batter] of flour & beer or wine, add a little oil and salt and stir [set aside to allow the flour to moisten as in crepe batter]. Fry the animelles slices (or whole depending on size) until half done in hot oil, drain & then dip them in the batter [paste]; & fry until crisp; drain and serve with fried parsley.
    Marinate animelles with onions, parsley, pepper, clove, vinegar & a little stock [this will cause the testicles to firm up or blanch {set the flesh} and remove any excess blood or fluid]; drain, dip in beaten eggs; then into bread crumbs; fry, & serve with fried parsley.

OBSERVATION MÉDECINALE
    The animelles are nourishing & strengthening: they become even more so, when they are cooked with paste, eggs & spices; but they are less agreeable to delicate people with feeble stomachs.
* * * * *
ANIMELLES: on appelle ainsi les testicules du bélier. On les sert de ces trios façons.
    On les coupe par morceaux en quatre ou huit; on en ôte la peau; on met dessus un peu de sel pilé & de farine; on les fait frire jusqu’à ce qu’elles soient croquantes.
    On fait une pâte avec farine détrempée de biere, ou vin, dans laquelle on met un demi-verre d’huile avec du sel. On fait frire les animelles à moitié, & on les met dans cette pâte; & ensuite on les remet à la friture; on les garnit de persil frit, pour servir.
    On les fait mariner avec oignons, persil, poivre, girofle, vinaigre & un peu de bouillon; on les trempe dans des œufs battus; on les pane; on les fait frire, & on les sert garnies de persil frit.

OBSERVATION MÉDECINALE
    Les animelles seules sont un mets nourrissant & fortifiant: elles le deviennent bien davantage, étant accommodée comme elles le sont ici avec de la pâte, des œufs & des épices; mais elles conviennent moins aux personnes delicates & aux estomacs foibles.


Dictionnaire Portatif de Cuisine, d'Office, et de Distillation. Chez Vincent, Paris 1767, p. 49.

In addition to fried parsley as a garnish, consider saucing them with butter and cream.

Planning the Potager

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Now is the time to plan your potager (kitchen garden). This will be my first garden in my new home. Homer will fell the spruce in the front yard, till the ground and put in raised beds. I plan to have both a formal herb planting, as well as salad patch. Here is a site on French biointensive gardening.

From past years, let me recommend the following books:

	Georgeanne Brennan's In the French Kitchen Garden
	John Jeavons on biointensive gardening, How to Grow More Vegetables.

March & April for the Confectioner

These are the two first Months of the Year that afford Matter for new Comfits, that is say, Violets, which are the first Flowers of a fragrant smell that the Earth brings forth, after it has been deliver'd from the Tyranny of the sharp Winter.

With these Flowers, Conserves and Pastes are made, as also Syrup of Violets, the gross Substance of which may be kept in Marmelade, to make dry Pastes, at other times: For want of these, when it is requisite to prepare any Thing, that has the taste and smell of a Violet, Indigo and Powder of Orrice are generally us'd, particularly for Pastils and Mosses, which are Sugar-works that may be made in any Season.

The court & country cook, faithfully translated out of French into English by J. K. A. J. Churchill, London, 1702, p. 11.

Ladyfingers - Biscuits Cuiller

Since the turn of the 18th Century, spoon biscuits, savoy biskets or Italian savoiardi, known to us as Ladyfingers, have been used with fruits, for dipping in drinks, and to "garnish certain pies."

These pies were known as "charlottes" by 1796. The typical Charlotte pan can be seen in Diderot's Cyclopaedie, 1767.

The court & country cook, faithfully translated out of French into English by J. K. A. J. Churchill, London, 1702, p. 66.

“Hercules and Hemings: African American Chefs in the President’s Kitchen”

Several 18thC kitchens:

Hidden Kitchens, a piece that explores the food of the founding fathers through the stories of Hercules and James Hemmings, enslaved chefs of George Washington and Thomas Jefferson and other African Americans who have cooked in the White House.

“Hercules and Hemings: African American Chefs in the President’s Kitchen” airs on NPR’s Morning Edition on Tuesday, February 19th. The piece will also be available online after the initial airing at www.hiddenkitchens.org

Cookies - Biscuits Ordinaire & Cuiller

Cookies – Biscuits ordinaries.
According to the size & the quantity of cookies which you will want to make, you will increase & decrease the amount here marked. Take eight eggs which you put in a balance, & as much weight of sugar of the other side; weigh also flour by the weight of four eggs, & put the flour and sugar on separate plates. Break eight eggs; put the whites aside in a pot, & the yellows in another pot with sugar & a little lime peel chopped [zested] very-fine. Beat the yellows with sugar during half an hour [until they are almost white and form a ribbon]; then whip the whites until they hold soft peaks. Fold them into the yolk mixture; then carefully fold in the flour little by little. Prepare paper [baking cups] or tinplate moulds, which are very carefully and completed coated with butter; fill molds with paste no more than half full: sprinkle fine [confectioner’s] sugar over tops, & cook in a soft furnace [slow oven 300ºF] for half an hour. Withdraw moulds from oven when they are of a beautiful golden color, and remove from moulds when half-cooled.

Cookies with the spoon – Biscuits cuillier.
They are mixed in the same way as the preceding recipe, with this difference: the weight of four eggs is sufficient. You do not put them in the moulds; when your paste is made, you take a spoonful for each cookie, & longitudinally lay them down on white paper sheets. After having sprinkled powdered sugar on top, cook in a furnace a little softer [250ºF] than the preceding recipe; & when they are cooked, remove them immediately from the paper with a knife.

* * * * *
La cuisinière bourgeoise: suivie de l'office, Menon. 1815.

Biscuits ordinaries.
Suivant la grosseur & la quantité de biscuits que vous voudrez faire, vous augmenterez & diminuerez la dose ici marquee. Prenez huit œufs que vous mettez dans une balance, & autant pesant de sucre de l’autre côté’ pesez aussi de la farine en en mettant la pesanteur de quatre œufs, & la mettez ensuite une assiette. Cassez les huit œufs; mettez les blancs à part dans une terrine, & les jaunes dans une autre terrine avec la sucre & un peu d’écorce de citron verd hachée très-fine. Battez bien les jaunes avec le sucre pendant une demi-heure; ensuite vous fouettez les blancs jusqu’à ce qu’ils soient bien montés. Mêlez-les avec le sucre’ ensuite vous y mêlerez peu à peu & légerement la faine en remuant toujours votre composition de biscuits. Vous avez des moules de fer-blanc ou de papier, qui sont tout prêts & bien beuréz en dedans avec du beure affine; mettez-y votre pâte; ne les emplissez qu’un peu plus de moitié: jettez du sucre fin par-dessus, & les faites cuire dans un four d’une chaleur douce pendant une demi-heure. Quand ils seront d’une belle couleur dorée, vous les retirerez des moules quand ils seront à demi-froids.

Biscuits à la cuiller.
Ils se sont de la meme façon que les précédens, à cette difference que la pesanteur de quatre œufs est suffiante. Vous ne les mettez point dans les moules; lorsque votre pâte est faite, vous en prenez une cuillerée pour chaque biscuit, & les couchez en long sur des feuilles de papier blance. Après avoir jettédu sucre fin dessus, vous les faites cuire dans un four un peu plus doux que les précédens; & quand ils sont cuits, vous les enlevez tout de suite de dessus le papier avec un couteau.